To truly start my tour at Europe’s northernmost point, I still needed to go to North Cape. Only, North Cape is not really the most northern point. When Richard Chancellor sailed past in 1553 in search of the Northwest Passage, he believed the 307m high cliff to be the northernmost part of Norway, thus naming it accordingly. Today it is well known that Europe’s true most northern point Knivskjelodden lies just a bit to the west of North Cape. But as Knivskjelodden can only be reached on foot, while North Cape plateau can be accessed by road, it became the more attractive site. Although, the definition of accessibility needs to be discussed, as you will find out, when reading on…
First Attempt
The wind had died down a bit over night, but was still rather strong. Nevertheless, I packed light gear and cycled out, believing, that as long as the road was clear, I would manage. How wrong I was. For the first kilometers the road wound smoothly and slowly up around a nice fjord. It was dry and totally freed of snow and ice, but flanked by high snow piles, which were proven evidence of the winter that still had not quite passed. First strong gusts hit me, when coming around a bend and leaving the protection of the surrounding mountains. Of course, never from behind, as this would have easily pushed me up the hill. I passed the spot where usually a Sami family puts up a traditional lavvu, a conical yurt, and has some reindeers staked in a nearby paddock to demonstrate their culture and life style to tourists. But the place looked abandoned, only naked stakes against the grey sky, where a fully erected lavvu was usually radiating warmth and shelter, and, of course, no reindeers in sight. As the climbs steepened, the wind increased as well, almost knocking me off. I had not even reached the open plateau, which is infamous for its strong winds. After another squall, I turned my bike and headed back down. Tough luck! Although, on second thought, it was a blessing in disguise that that I had to turn around early. Just about 2 km before reaching town, a heavy snow fall set in, forcing thick flakes and ice pellets in my face. With hardly any vision I negotiated my way back to the hostel.
Next Try
The snow continued all afternoon and way into the night. Everything was quickly smothered in a thick white blanket, graciously giving Honningsvag a fresh and clean appearance. Suddenly, Honningsvag looked quite appealing. I did walk to the harbour next morning, trudging through deep fresh snow, hoping to find out if the daily buses with the Hurtigruten passengers would go up to North Cape. However, I was out of luck again. The road to North Cape had been completely closed off that day. Not even the usual convey, where cars and buses followed a snow plough, was let through.
Third time lucky
Next morning I was greeted by blue sky and blazing sunshine. Snow covered Honningsvag and the surrounding mountains sparkled and glittered in the sunlight. Again, I made it down to the harbor and got lucky at last: even though it had snowed liberally over the night, there was going to be a convey up to North Cape. As soon as we left Honningsvag and drove deeper into the Mageroya mountains, the weather changed. Clouds displaced the sun and the wind caught up. Although the snow plough must have cleared the road several times already, it was still covered in snow and ice. No chance, I could have ever made it up here by bike.
When we reached North Cape we were greeted with a heavy snow drift, strong winds and bitter coldness. The famous panorama was totally blocked from view, one could hardly see beyond the barrier surrounding the cliff. What a hostile and merciless place. Despite it, people flooded the plateau and went straight for North Cape’s landmark: the globe. It was hopelessly crowded, people clicking away madly, not bothering that other people would show in their photographs. Counting on the thankless weather conditions, I hoped, that most people would head straight back inside after succeeding in taking their I’ve-been-to-North-Cape evidence. And right I was. Quickly everyone returned into the warmth of the Nordkapphallen and I had the plateau and the globe almost to myself. Naturally, I had to have a photo of me and the North Cape globe as well! There is a saying in Norway: if you don’t like the weather, just wait five minutes. Not exactly five minutes but half an hour later, the clouds lifted slightly revealing a tiny fraction of blue ocean.
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