A hike around Bergen – from Ulriken to Floyen

Bergen’s close vicinity to nature makes it a wonderful starting point for hiking trips. I decided to walk the popular but very scenic hike from mountain Ulriken to Floyen across the Vidden plain. The 18 km trail is well marked with signs and cairns, so it could be done safely …

Bergen between Hanseatic heritage and modern art

After the relative solitary and tranquility of Norway’s country side, I felt slightly overwhelmed by the hustle and bustle of Bergen. The express boat disembarked us next to Bergen’s famous open air fish market around midday, and I was immediately engulfed by traffic. Norway’s second largest city with more than …

On my last legs – to Bergen

My last two cycle legs had been marked by two traits: their brevity and soddenness! I had left my lovely apartment in Ålesund around afternoon to catch the ferry to Hareid. However, I somehow had missed the ferry-does-not-operate-on-Sundays-notice on it’s schedule. Furthermore, I totally forgot to check the weather forecast. …

Ålesund – lodging with Kaiser Wilhelm

I arrived with the Hurtigruten ferry in Ålesund in the middle of the night. Mostly known for its unique Art Nouveau architecture, Ålesund is an elegant and enchanting town, which not unlike Kristiansund, spreads out over several islands. Ålesund ows it’s unusual consistent architecture a devastating fire in 1904, in …

Atlanterhavsveien – like cycling over water

After a couple of days off the bike, I got back on to continue my tour. Although I had welcomed the restdays, as soon as I was back in the saddle, I felt home again. In Felicity Luckey’s words: “Cycling is so difficult when you have to and so easy …

In the Grip of Norway’s smallest fishing community

I used the unstable weather for a restday at Kristiansund and decided on a day trip to the fishing village Gripholmen, or short Grip, a small and remote island about 14 km northwest of Kristiansund. We left the protected harbour of Kristiansund on the vessel Hagbart Waage and headed for …

Kristiansund – Capital of Bacalao

Kristiansund, named after the Danish-Norwegian king Christian VI, is beautifully spread out over four main islands: Nordlandet (nicknamed Marokko), Kirkelandet and Gomalandet and Innlandet (humorously called Tahiti). It’s good natural harbour and rich fishing grounds attracted settlers and Krististiansund developed into an important trading and fishing point. With the introduction …

Trondheim – Old and new

After a more or less comfortable night on Hurtigruten’s lounge sofa, I disembarked at Trondheim shortly after six in the morning. This early on a Saturday morning hardly anyone was about and I negotiated my way through a still sleeping city. On my way to the youth hostel I already …

Kystriksveien – Across the Arctic Circle

Back on the mainland, after a wonderful but occasionally tough time on the Lofoten, I set out from Bodø to follow Kystriksveien, the scenic coastal road No. 17 winding along the stunning coast line of Helgeland. Blue sky, bright sunshine, and moderate temperatures were perfect conditions for cycling, and I …