Atlanterhavsveien – like cycling over water

After a couple of days off the bike, I got back on to continue my tour. Although I had welcomed the restdays, as soon as I was back in the saddle, I felt home again. In Felicity Luckey’s words: “Cycling is so difficult when you have to and so easy when you want to.”


Taking the bus from Kristiansund to cross the Atlanterhavstunnelen between Kristiansund and Averøy, which is closed to cyclists, I was looking forward to today’s leg. I was going to cycle on the famous Alantic Road, also known as the “Road in the Ocean”, which meanders between a string of small islands, islets and skerries, connected by seven bridges. Named the Norwegian Construction of the Century, regarded as one of the most beautiful drives in the world, and several times voted as Norway’s best cycle route, I very much anticipated to cycle on this unique and ingenious engineering feat.


But as often with great expectations, reality seems rather profane and unspectacular. While pedalling on the twisting and turning road, taking me past moorland, islands and over turtuous bridges it took me right down to the coast. The combination of modern architecture and coastal scenery sure does make for some magnificient views, but it is a hell of ride as well, especially when cycling. The sea on your left and right, a drizzle from above, salty spray from the sides, the wind tugging at you from all directions and blowing everything right back into your face. I have never on the whole journey been closer to my idea of following the Atlantic coast line than on this ocean road. Sounded like a great idea when planning, but I was not sure if I liked it much at that time. I must admit I did not take in too much of my surroundings, and might have missed out on the oh-so awe-inspiring sights, as I was hiding under my hood and keeping my head down best possible.


Finally back on solid ground, I camped at a small and very tranquil campsite, just south of the picturesque fishing village Bud. Mostly long term residents, many from Germany, camped here, enjoying the peace and quiet and the good fishing grounds.

Next day I reached Molde via the old road to Skaret, bypassing the Tussentunnel (no joke!), which of course had cost me additional 200m elevation but was abundantly lined with beautiful blue lupins. As recompense I treated myself to a blissfull Thai Massage once in Molde. Done for the day!


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